The Sights (and smells!) of Durian City

When I stepped out of the airport in Butuan City in the Philippines, I knew I had come to a special place. The taxis wore “Durian City” signs. There was a huge statue of a durian outside.

It’s true that I am a durian freak. Despite the wretched smell, I absolutely love it, and I seek it out at specialty supermarkets in Panama and California. I’ve even spent up to $45 on one durian fruit–and this was when my bank account was low.

The fruit has a creamy texture. Its succulent flavor can really only be described as “durian.” In many parts of Southeast Asia the durian is considered a delicacy—a way of life, even.

Butuan City is one of those places where the durian faith is strong.

I was in my element. This fruit elevates my spirit and brings me deep peace, and I too, would like to construct a durian statue to show my respect to the Durian Gods. It is worthy of such veneration.

The purpose of my visit to Butuan City was to tour some coconut plantations for export development purposes. However, I was also in Butuan to eat durian and visit durian farms.

I was able to visit a small durian farm up in the hills above Butuan. While there was no ripe durian during my visit, I did get to see the fruit growing under its ideal conditions. I asked the farmers the key to growing durian. They were confused about my question, because at their farm, it just grows! No pesticides, no fertilizers. They just harvest it when it is ripe.

After my farm visit, I returned to my hotel and quickly asked around for where I could buy some ripe durian. To my amazement, I discovered that there is a small market in Butuan City dedicated entirely to the sale of fresh and frozen durian. What a blessing! I grabbed a taxi and headed straight to the market.

I think I found heaven on earth.

With a huge smile, I made my way to the first market stand and bought a fresh durian. I devoured the whole thing and then immediately ordered another! With the second durian, I took my time, careful not to overdose.

I then proceeded to buy another package of frozen durian to take back with me to my hotel. As I was passing through security at my hotel, the guard stopped me in my tracks and searched my bags. He was looking for durian.

And he found it. The guard made it clear that I would have to leave my durian in the outside refrigerator. It was the hotel policy that no one was allowed to enter the hotel with durian, as the smell could upset other hotel guests. Not everyone is a follower of the durian faith!

Want to learn about other extraordinary foods and the farmers who grow them? Follow Producers Market on Instagram!